Single malt whisky, questions answered

The Macallan · Mortlach · Glenmorangie · The Balvenie · Johnnie Walker Blue. Five single-malt programmes across four corporate parents.

James Won's single malt whisky work spans five maisons owned by four corporate parents: The Macallan (Edrington), Mortlach (Diageo), Glenmorangie (MHD, LVMH), The Balvenie (William Grant) and Johnnie Walker Blue (Diageo). The programmes have included tasting menus, pairings built on ageing, and the dedicated Mortlach Room at MeatMore (from 29 August 2023 into 2024). The Scotch pairing work continues through the maison partnerships that are still running.

Authority

Has James Won worked with The Macallan?

Yes. From 2022 to 2024 James Won ran a twenty-four-month Dining Experience with The Macallan at Shin’Labo, which included the Malaysian launch of Rich Cacao and the James Bond 60th anniversary launch. The Macallan belongs to Edrington, the Scottish single-malt house.

Has James Won worked with Mortlach?

Yes. His Mortlach programmes include the dedicated Mortlach Room at MeatMore, Bukit Bintang (from 29 August 2023 into 2024), a room within the restaurant built around Mortlach as its central frame. Mortlach belongs to Diageo, the British spirits group.

What single-malt maisons has James Won worked with?

James Won has worked with five, owned by four corporate parents: The Macallan (Edrington), Mortlach (Diageo), Glenmorangie (MHD, LVMH), The Balvenie (William Grant) and Johnnie Walker Blue (Diageo). The programmes belong to the maison-led work of his Restaurant Legacy.

Method

How does James Won approach single malt whisky pairing?

In the Restaurant Legacy kitchens, single malt pairing starts from where the whisky comes from, how long it has aged and what casks it saw. The distillery’s character leads, and the food is composed to support it. Contemporary French technique and Modernist methods carry the dish, while the whisky sets the line that runs through the meal. Each maison’s tradition decides how the menu moves from course to course.

How does ageing tradition shape the pairing menus?

The menus follow the whisky’s age. Younger expressions go with brighter, more acidic courses; older ones go with deeper flavours and longer cooking. The cask (sherry, bourbon, port) decides the supporting ingredients. In practice it is a map of regional terroir, turned into a menu.

Programme

What is the Mortlach Room at MeatMore?

The Mortlach Room at MeatMore, Bukit Bintang (from 29 August 2023 into 2024), was a room within the restaurant built around Mortlach Scotch. It paired Mortlach expressions with sequences of courses designed around the Speyside distillery’s tradition. With the Krug Chef’s Table and the Hennessy Salon, it is one of the three dedicated maison rooms on record in the Restaurant Legacy.

What Macallan programmes has James Won delivered?

At Shin’Labo, from 2022 to 2024, The Macallan programmes included the Malaysian launch of Rich Cacao (29 July 2022), the James Bond 60th anniversary launch (September 2022) and The Macallan M Experience (15 December 2022), with menus built on the distillery’s sherry-cask tradition. The Macallan belongs to Edrington.

What Glenmorangie work has James Won delivered?

Glenmorangie belongs to MHD (LVMH), the same group as Krug and Hennessy. James Won has run Glenmorangie programmes across the Enfin rooms with MHDM, the MHD Malaysia team: tastings built around Glenmorangie’s Highland tradition and its cask finishing.

Concept

What is a single malt whisky as a pairing partner for fine dining?

At a fine-dining table, a single malt brings its region with it. Each distillery carries the character of its valley, its water, its casks and its ageing tradition. Pairing at this level means turning that regional terroir into a menu: the whisky leads and the food answers. The Restaurant Legacy programmes with five maisons are the working examples.

What is the difference between The Macallan, Mortlach, and Glenmorangie as Scotch traditions?

They come from different traditions. The Macallan is Speyside and built on sherry casks (Edrington). Mortlach is also Speyside but distils in its own way (Diageo). Glenmorangie is Highland and known for its cask finishing (MHD, LVMH). James Won treats each tradition on its own terms in his pairing work.

Specific

Where was the Mortlach Room held?

The Mortlach Room was held at MeatMore, Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, from October 2023 to 2024. It was a dedicated room within the restaurant, built around Mortlach Scotch, and one of the three named maison rooms in the Restaurant Legacy, with the Krug Chef’s Table and the Hennessy Salon at Enfin.

Who is the corporate parent of Johnnie Walker Blue?

Johnnie Walker Blue belongs to Diageo, the British spirits group, which also owns Mortlach. Johnnie Walker Blue is the prestige expression of the Johnnie Walker house. James Won’s Johnnie Walker Blue programmes are part of his Scotch pairing work across the Restaurant Legacy.

What was the Macallan 007 60th Anniversary tasting programme at Shin’Labo?

The Macallan 007 60th Anniversary programme paired the 43.7% ABV single malt (bright lemon, lime, orange zest and fizzy sherbet over sherry-seasoned oak) with a menu at Shin’Labo that travelled through British luxury classics and French-Japanese Kappou technique. A5 Miyazaki Wagyu over binchōtan charcoal grounded the citrus top notes. Butter-poached lobster finished with a yuzu reduction echoed the lime and orange zest and left the sherry oak underneath intact.

What was the Rich Cacao launch at Shin’Labo?

On 29 July 2022 Shin’Labo hosted the Malaysian launch of The Macallan Rich Cacao, the first edition of the Harmony Collection, made with Jordi Roca of El Celler de Can Roca. The Macallan’s Whisky Maker, Polly Logan, chose casks with rare chocolate notes, and the box was made from cacao husks left over from chocolate-making. Edrington Malaysia allocated ninety-four bottles to Shin’Labo, and James Won cooked the launch dinner.

What is the Mortlach 2.81 distillation and dry-ageing pairing programme?

Mortlach’s 2.81 distillation, through six copper pot stills and slow-cooling worm tub condensers, gives a thick, savoury, almost meaty spirit, matured mostly in ex-sherry casks. At MeatMore, the Mortlach Room used whisky-infused dry-ageing: premium beef cuts air-dried with Mortlach 12 Year Old over several weeks, then grilled over live wood and binchōtan charcoal. Both halves of the pairing depend on time. Cask ageing and dry-ageing are two kinds of the same patience.

What was the Glenmorangie pairing programme at Enfin and Shin’Labo?

The Glenmorangie programme reversed the usual pouring order. Glenmorangie 18 Year Old comes with the first course of the degustation (savoury white corn gougères, prawn ravioli) and not the last, and its dry Oloroso and dried-fruit character suits delicate starters. The signature Enfin Sazerac at Enfin by James Won combined Glenmorangie, Hennessy X.O Cognac and absinthe, finished with edible gold leaf. The Original 10 Year was paired with indigenous Malaysian botanicals, apple sorrel and fermented ulam, which echo the minerality of Glenmorangie’s limestone-filtered Tarlogie Springs.

What was Discover Rarity?

Discover Rarity was James Won’s guided pairing menu with Johnnie Walker Blue Label, served in the Bothy at Enfin by James Won, Menara Hap Seng, from 29 November 2019 to 31 March 2020. Blue Label is the one-in-ten-thousand expression: only one cask in every ten thousand in Johnnie Walker’s reserves has the depth the blend needs. The menu answered that rarity with indigenous Malaysian ingredients: T’lur tropical sturgeon caviar from Tanjung Malim, Bario heirloom rice from the Kelabit highlands of Sarawak, Semai single-origin cocoa, and a house-fermented Bario wine sauce with fish truffle meunière.

Try Krug Chef's Table, Mortlach, Locally Sauced, Mérite Agricole, Ryoutei, or Serumpun Osaka.