James Won at the Krug Chef's Table, Shin'Labo

文明辉Chef · Conservationist

James Won

Cooking for heritage, diplomacy and soul.

Photograph by Bonnie Yap

The plate

Food is my first language.

Twelve plates from fourteen years of cooking: the restaurants, the maisons and Serumpun Sarawak. Each one opens onto the story behind it.

Krug × Pepper: a red pepper filled as Hakka yong tau foo, finished with caviar and flowers on a green sauce.
Krug × Pepper: Hakka yong tau fooKrug Single Ingredient, 2019Photograph by Sepp Dasbach
Two small glass dishes of amuse-bouche on dark moss.
Amuse-bouche, on mossShin'LaboPhotograph by Bonnie Yap
Caviar and uni, Le Entrée, the signature dish of the Krug × Lemon menu.
Le Entrée: caviar, uni, miso lemon tuileKrug × LemonPhotograph by Bonnie Yap
Sea urchin in a small tin on a piece of driftwood, on burl wood.
Sea urchin, raised on driftwoodShin'LaboPhotograph by Klaus Tan, Chuttersnap
Empurau confit in Enkabang nut oil, the emperor of river fish, among bare branches.
Empurau confit in Enkabang oilSerumpun Sarawak, OsakaPhotograph by Bonnie Yap
A whole glazed langoustine on a white oval plate, held out through torn dark-blue paper.
Glazed langoustineMortlachPhotograph by Bonnie Yap
Sarawak tiger prawn wrapped in daun bungkang and hearth-roasted, in Buah Kulim bisque.
Tiger prawn in daun bungkangSerumpun Sarawak, OsakaPhotograph by Bonnie Yap
Binchotan duck à l'orange on a white plate, on dark moss.
Binchotan duck à l'orangeShin'LaboPhotograph by Bonnie Yap
Aged venison in a Litsea cubeba and Bario salt crust, on three-coloured Bario rice risotto.
Aged venison on Bario riceSerumpun Sarawak, OsakaPhotograph by Bonnie Yap
Three slices of seared beef with small garnishes, on burl wood.
Seared beef, in three slicesShin'LaboPhotograph by Klaus Tan, Chuttersnap
Truffle Hayashi rice in a glass bowl, on dark moss.
Truffle Hayashi riceShin'LaboPhotograph by Bonnie Yap
Black rice kuih, matcha warabi mochi, coconut sorbet and soy-caramel sablé.
Black rice kuih, warabi mochi, coconut sorbetSerumpun Sarawak, OsakaPhotograph by Bonnie Yap
James Won at the board
Photograph by Bonnie Yap.

The keeper of something older

A chef, I have come to believe, keeps something older than himself.

I learned French technique in Paris and Lyon and the precision of Japanese yōshoku, then spent fourteen years in Malaysia turning that training into contemporary French cooking with Modernist techniques, across six restaurants. Since 2025 it has gone into Serumpun Sarawak, where I work with Borneo's thirty-four indigenous communities to record their food knowledge and cook from it. French Borneo, the cuisine I am building now, grows out of that work.

I hold two French knighthoods, and I take both as an obligation. If you have come with something in mind, a collaboration, an event or a question about Borneo, here is how we can work together. Every message is read.

The work

Four bodies of work

The Krug Chef's Table at Shin'Labo. Photograph by Bonnie Yap. The Hennessy Salon at Enfin. Photograph by Bonnie Yap. In conversation, Sarawak. Photograph by Atlas Collective. At the Shin'Labo counter. Photograph by Klaus Tan, Chuttersnap.

A hillside in Cameron Highlands cut into red-earth terraces, a road winding through.

Nose to tail · Terroir · Terruño

Sustainability is how I cook, every day and on every plate.

From the farm to the table

Cameron Highlands, January 2022. Photograph by Choo Cheng Fei.

On the record

“In a country where Champagne and fine wines are just starting their journey, James has been a pioneer since at least 2014.”

Manuel Reman, President of Maison Krug, LinkedIn recommendation, 15 September 2024

Try Krug Chef's Table, Mortlach, Locally Sauced, Mérite Agricole, Ryoutei, or Serumpun Osaka.